Once you've received your Aurora kit, please open it up and make sure you've received all the parts you are supposed to. Please inspect everything for any visual sign of damage. Look around the packaging to see if any component fell off from the PCB. Please contact us if something is missing or appears to be broken.
The following items should be included with every Aurora, but please refer to the kit contents of your particular Aurora for a complete list.
To assemble the Ikki68 Aurora, you will need:
2.0mm Hex
screwdriver / bit for case screws.Phillips #1
screwdriver / bit for the badge base screwsPlug in the PCB to see if it's recognized by your PC / MAC. Double check if all the underglow LEDs turn on. Check if the in-switch LEDs light up as well if you have a Lapland or Tromso PCB.
We highly recommend testing the PCB with a pair of tweezers before you proceed any further. It will save you the time spent assembling and disassembling in case you get a faulty PCB. Find out how to test your PCB in this section.
Keep in mind the Fn key on any of the PCBs won't show up in a key tester
It's a good idea to install the case feet right at the beginning so we avoid scratching the bottom case.
Use your fingers or something small to stick the circular feet in the four corner spots.
Drop the badge base with the stems facing down in the slot on the front part of the top case.
Then press down on the top of the badge base with one finger, flip the top case and screw the stems on with two badge screws.
Do NOT overtighten the badge screws or you risk cracking the case.
It's best to rest the PCB on a piece of clean and dry cardboard when you're working with it to prevent electrostatic discharge. It's okay to rest it on the bag that it came in if you do not have a piece of cardboard / cardboard box big enough. Please make sure to frequently touch a piece of metal that's in contact with the ground, like your PC case, to rid yourself of static discharge.
Install the stabilizers on the PCB. You can use both snap-in and screw-in PCB mount stabilizers. Plate mount stabilizers are not compatible. Always insert the end with the hook first at an angle, and then flatten. The screw end goes in the smaller hole.
If you're new to keyboard building, please search Youtube on tutorials on how to install screw-in or snap in stabilizers on a PCB. The process is the same for Aurora.
How many of which sizes you need depends on the layout you plan to use. Please see the multi-layout-guide for more info.
If you are using screw-in stabilizers, you MUST use the included washers under the screws of your stabilizers or your PCB will most likely short.
This is such an important step that it bears repeating twice. Please make sure to use washers included with your Aurora, or your stabilizer when using screw-in stabilizers with all the PCBs, except for Tromso.
Do not be alarmed if the washer bends and deforms as the screw tightens. The hotswap sockets are strong enough to absorb the force. As long as the washer is stopping any direct contact between the screw any other part of the PCB then you are good to go.
Do not overtighten the stabilizer screws. Tighten only until the housing is secured and doesn't move easily when you push laterally.
If you find stabilizers fitting a little tight on the board, use a screw driver from the other side of the PCB to guide the stabilizer end to the hole.
This is an optional step. You don't need to use standoffs, the tension from the switches can hold the PCB and plate together. Please skip to the next step if you choose not to use standoffs.
Standoffs can only be used with the default aluminum plate. They cannot be used on any other plate from Wuque Studio.
First, screw the standoffs on at the back side of the plate
The silicone dampening pad between plate and PCB is also optional as well. You do not have to use it.
If you choose to use it, lay the silicone dampening pad on top of the plate. Make sure the tabs in the dampening pad fit into the slots cut into the plate.
You need to cut a piece of the dampening pad if you're using the Tromso PCB. More details on it in the 5.3 section below.
Finally, lay the PCB on top of the dampening pad, or on top of the standoffs. Make sure you align the holes on the PCB to the standoffs, and use the badge screws to attach the plate to the PCB.
Do not overtighten the screws. You do not need to use washers here.
This is an optional step. You do not need to use the silicone dampening pad between the plate and PCB.
You will not be able to use the logo chip if you're not using the dampening pad between PCB and plate. You can turn off the logo LEDs in software or put a piece of black electrical tape over them to stop them from lighting up the entire cutout.
Simply place the silicone dampening pad between the plate and PCB. Make sure all the holes line up. Also make sure the tabs on the dampening pad flit into the slots cut into the plate.
If you're using the Tromso PCB, you need to cut a little piece of the pad to accomodate the physical on/off switch on the PCB.
Just use a pair of scissors to snip the tab circled in green.
It's best to rest the PCB on a piece of clean and dry cardboard when you're working with it to prevent electrostatic discharge. It's okay to rest it on the bag that it came in if you do not have a piece of cardboard / cardboard box big enough. Please make sure to frequently touch a piece of metal that's in contact with the ground, like your PC case, to rid yourself of static discharge.
This step assumes you're using one of the hot-swap PCBs. If you're using a soldered PCB just follow any other guides online for any other keyboard, the soldering process is the same.
Install the four corner switches first once you have the plate and the PCB lined up.
When install a switch, make sure to brace the hot-swap socket on the other side of the PCB as you're pushing the switch in.
Make sure the legs on the switch are straight, and the switch housing is properly closed.
Switches should clip on to the plate without using too much force. Please see the Troubleshooting Guide if you're having trouble fitting switches on your FR4 plate.
Always make sure to brace the hot-swap socket from the other side when installing switches. It is fairly common to pop out the sockets if you are not being careful and if you're not bracing the sockets. Soldering the sockets back on can be daunting for beginners.
DO NOT force the switch in if it doesn't want to fit into the plate or the PCB with a light - moderate amount of force. You risk breaking the switch if you do so. Check if the switch legs are straight and check if the switch is properly closed. Some switches, especially with films installed are bigger than average and can have trouble fitting in most plates.
Please refer to the multi-layout-guide to figure out how to take advantage of all the possible layouts on the PCBs.
Proceed to the next step once you have all the switches installed.
Some versions of Aurora, especially ones with an opaque top case may not come with logo chips because the LEDs cannot be seen through the top case.
You will not be able to use the logo chip if you're not using the dampening pad between PCB and plate. You can turn off the logo LEDs in software or put a piece of black electrical tape over them to stop them from lighting up the entire cutout.
Slide the logo chip of your choice in between the plate and the dampening pad. You can use a pointy tweezer or a screwdriver to fine tune the alignment.
You can find a detailed guide on how to do this in the gasket-mounting-guide
Please proceed to the next section once you've got gaskets strips applied to your gaskets chips, and have the gaskets chips installed on the board.
First, place the big silicone dampener inside the bottom case.
This is optional, you do not need to use this. If you do not use it, you should also skip the rest of this step and move on to Step 6.3
You must use the bottom case silicone dampener if you'd like to use a battery with Tromso PCB
If you chose to use the bottom case silicone dampener, you should use the other two dampeners that fit into it as well.
If you're using a battery with Tromso PCB then place the battery in the smaller cut-out. See step 6.4 for more info.
If you're using any other PCB then place the battery pad in the cutout instead
If you purchased the optional Brass weight, you can install it in the bigger cutout. See Step 6.3 more more info.
If you do not have a brass weight, simply place the weight pad in the cutout with the small bumps facing outward.
The brass weight, sold as an add-on, comes with two sets of screws and silicone spacers.
Place the weight with the design facing up on top of the screw posts on the bottom case.
Use the longer, 8mm screws on the top left and top right corner. Use the shorter, 6mm screws on the bottom left and bottom right corner
The brass weight uses two different length of screws. Please use the correct screw for each hole as outlined above.
In some rare cases the Lapland PCB may cause a short if it touches the brass weight during typing. The PCB will not be damaged and there are no other risks. If you experience a short with Lapland and the brass weight, please use a thin piece of insulating material on top of the weight, or use more gasket chips and the plate foam to reduce flex. This is not an issue with the default Fairbanks PCB.
If your brass weight comes with 6 holes instead of 4, you can use the bear spacers to block the middle hole if you'd like.
This step only applies to Tromso (Bluetooth) PCB. You can use Tromso in wired mode without a battery, but you definitely need one to take advantage of the Bluetooth capabilities.
You must use the bottom case silicone dampener if you'd like to use a battery with Tromso PCB
Instead of the battery pad, place the battery in the smaller cutout in the bottom case dampening pad. Route the wire through the channel cut in the dampening pad.
You can use either the brass weight or the weight pad to fill out the bigger cutout covering the battery.
Finally, connect the battery to the Tromso PCB. Pay attention to the orientation of the pins.
The JST extension cable that comes with the Tromso PCB reverses polarity. For most batteries you need to use the extension cable for it to work. If your board doesn't power on, try connecting the battery directly to the JST female connector on the PCB.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CASE SCREWS.
Rest the assembled plate + PCB combo on top of the bottom case.
Start by guiding the USB port in first, make sure it aligns correctly with the USB cutout.
Make sure the cutouts on the plate line up with all the screw posts. When placed correctly the plate will not move around on the bottom case.
Start screwing on the screws. We recommend screwing them on at opposite ends in an alternating order. The diagram below shows such a recommended order.
DO NOT tighten the screws all the way yet. Just make sure the screw makes contact with the top case
Once all the screws have made contact with the top case, start tightening them one by one at each side of the case.
Keep an eye on the seam, make sure it's as even as possible all the way.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CASE SCREWS.
You risk cracking the case if you overtighten the screws.
Only tighten until you feel like they cannot be turned any more without using more than a slight bit of force.
You're nearly done now! All there's left to do it to put the badge and keycaps on!
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CASE SCREWS.
Simply place the badge on top of the badge base and it'll snap into place due to the magnets.
That's it! Congratulations on putting your Aurora together!
If you have any questions about any of the guides, or require clarification, you can get help via:
If you have a problem with your Aurora that was not solved by the Troubleshooting Guide, you can get help via:
Wuque Studio Discord - Probably the quickest way to fix your problem. Don't forget to search first!
Sending an email to the shop you purchased from OR
Sending an email to [email protected]. Do not email both the shop and Wuque Studio
Thanks @NotJeff#3851 for providing the Forged Carbon prototype plate. His Forged Carbon, Carbon Fiber & POM plates are available at NotJeffCNC.com
Thanks to Ai03 and his Vega build guide for providing reference for the framework of this guide.
Thanks to Mech.land for writing this guide and providing the battery for illustrations. The batteries for Ikki68 Aurora are available at Mech.land and NotJeffCNC